Deep Ocean Waves
The deep ocean waves are derived from the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, an
empirically derived mathmatically model based on real ocean wave data that
relates wave energy to wave frequency for a given wind speed. Our deep ocean
wave model produces multi-frequency and multi-directional waves for sea states 0
to 9, where the user defines the number of frequencies as well as the dominant
wind direction to model.
Wave Amplification
Based on linear shoaling theory, our surf zone model amplifies the wave heights of
incoming waves as the bathymetry or depth of the ocean floor decreases. The wave
amplification data is derived from the ocean engineering literature [1] which
gives the relationship between a depth to wavelength ratio to a wave
amplification factor.
Breaker Criteria
The determination of when a wave breaks is derived from empirical ocean
engineering literature. The criteria used is based on the wave height to
wavelength ratio. If this ratio exceed a certain threshold, the wave is
marked as breaking. In the current model, we only consider the plunging
class of breakers.
Modeling Features:
- Realistic near shore waves based on Pierson-Moskowitz wave spectrum model.
- Wave height amplification based on near shore bathymetry data.
- Wave breaking based on dynamic wave parameters.
- Multiple wave fronts.
- Near shore wave length shortening.
- Near shore wave refraction.
Rendering Features:
- Plunging breaker geometry.
- Sea spray during breaker initiation.
- Sea spray during wave splash-up.
- Sea foam during wave run-up.
- Spilling breaker geometry.
Programmable Features:
- User defined wave coefficients.
- User defined bathymetry data.
- User defined surf zone grid and extent size.
References
- R. Sorenson. "Basic Wave Mechanics", 1993.
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